Extending the Lifespan of Garments Globally through Local Upcycling

A Mixed-Methods Approach

Authors

  • Hester Lies Vanacker Arts et Métiers Sciences et Technologies, Institut Français de la Mode, Belgium; IFM-Kering Sustainability Chair, France https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8750-6789
  • Andrée-Anne Lemieux IFM-Kering Sustainability Chair, France
  • Kirsi Maria Laitala OsloMet – Oslo Metropolitan University, Norway
  • Michelle Dindi Independent Researcher
  • Samir Lamouri Arts et Métiers Sciences et Technologies, Institut Français de la Mode, France
  • Sophie Bonnier Kering, France

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.54337/plate2025-10283

Keywords:

Garment durability, Circularity, Product lifespan, Upcycling, Sustainable fashion

Abstract

Extending the lifespan of garments is considered a solution to counteract a culture that views them as disposable objects. However, how this is to be done in practice remains unclear. Using a multimethod approach, this study aims to investigate how garments can adapt to their local environment(s) and user(s) so that they can go through different life cycles. To this end, the authors combined data from semi-structured interviews conducted in five different countries and enriched them through triangulation with available literature. We discovered that the durability of garments is dynamic in nature, and that upcycling is a method to extend their lifespans. Furthermore, how the materials of the garment are perceived locally, influences if it is considered eligible for upcycling. As local conditions have not been considered in the definition of the concept so far, we have defined local upcycling as: a process in which materials and garments that are considered worth discarding in their current state are transformed into a product of higher value that is suitable for the local environment, eliminating the need for a new product. Although the lack of field research at the organizational level is a limitation of this study, the authors view this as a potential avenue for future research.

Author Biography

Hester Lies Vanacker, Arts et Métiers Sciences et Technologies, Institut Français de la Mode, Belgium; IFM-Kering Sustainability Chair, France

Hester Lies Vanacker is a graduate of the MSc in International Fashion and Luxury Management at the Institut Français de la Mode. During her master's program she started to focus on sustainability eventually moving into research on garment durability and their role in a just circular transition. This led to her publishing two articles on this topic and eventually starting a PhD at ENSAM. She works with an action research approach and is currently working in Sumba, a remote island in Indonesia. There she teaches women how to sew with discarded fabrics. In this way, she creates jobs and at the same time finds local solutions to the global textile waste crisis. She does freelance work through her own platform Hé the Studio.

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Published

24-06-2025

How to Cite

Vanacker, H. L., Lemieux, A.-A., Laitala, K. M., Dindi, M., Lamouri, S., & Bonnier, S. (2025). Extending the Lifespan of Garments Globally through Local Upcycling: A Mixed-Methods Approach. Proceedings of the 6th Product Lifetimes and the Environment Conference (PLATE2025), (6). https://doi.org/10.54337/plate2025-10283

Issue

Section

Track 11: Clothing, Footwear, and Accessories – Research Papers