How Policies are Shaping Longer-Lasting Textiles in Europe
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.54337/plate2025-10325Keywords:
Regulations, Legal framework, Eco-design, Extended producer responsibility, FashionAbstract
European policies are evolving to extend the lifespan of textiles and reduce waste, but challenges remain in implementation. This study examines how policies have shifted from voluntary measures before 2020 to stricter regulations, such as the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation and Extended Producer Responsibility schemes. While these policies aim to make textiles more durable, most still focus on managing waste rather than preventing it. A key challenge is the lack of repair infrastructure and inconsistent enforcement across countries. Additionally, current policies sometimes prioritize recyclability over longevity, which can lead to unintended consequences like shorter product lifespans. Policies must better support durability through financial incentives, clearer design standards, and better enforcement to make a real impact. Investing in repair and reuse infrastructure alongside recycling efforts will be essential for creating a genuinely circular textile economy.
References
BMUV Germany. (2020). Die Obhutspflicht im Kreislaufwirtschaftsgesetz. https://www.bmuv.de/themen/kreislaufwirtschaft/abfallpolitik/uebersicht-kreislaufwirtschaftsgesetz
Department for Environment Food & Rural Affairs. (2023). The waste prevention programme for England: Maximising Resources, Minimising Waste. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/waste-prevention-programme-for-england-maximising-resources-minimising-waste/the-waste-prevention-programme-for-england-maximising-resources-minimising-waste#:~:text=Our%20aim%3A%20to%20support%20our,a%20profitable%20textile%20recycling%20industry.
EEA. (2022). Textiles and the environment: the role of design in Europe’s circular economy. E. E. Agency. https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/textiles-and-the-environment-the/textiles-and-the-environment-the
REACH Regulation, (2021). https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/chemicals/reach-regulation_en
Federal Ministry Republic of Austria. (2020). The Austrian Circular Economy Strategy Austria on the path to a sustainable and circular society. https://www.bmk.gv.at/en/topics/climate-environment/waste-resource-management/ces.html
Government of the Netherlands. (2020). Policy programme for circular textile 2020-2025. https://www.government.nl/documents/parliamentary-documents/2020/04/14/policy-programme-for-circular-textile-2020-2025
Kirchherr, J., Reike, D., & Hekkert, M. (2017). Conceptualizing the circular economy: An analysis of 114 definitions. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 127, 221-232. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2017.09.005
Lizenzero. (2024). Textile EPR in Europe: an opportunity for a greener future in fashion. https://www.lizenzero.eu/en/blog/textile-epr-in-europe-an-opportunity-for-a-greener-future-in-fashion/#:~:text=Introduction%20of%20the%20textile%20EPR%20in%20Latvia&text=The%20amendment%20to%20the%20law,fees%20to%20an%20EPR%20system.
Lüttin, L. (2024a). France’s Climate and Resilience Law for Fashion & Textile Companies. https://www.carbonfact.com/blog/policy/france-climate-and-resilience-law#:~:text=Labeling%20requirements%3A%20At%20the%20time,impact%20on%20biodiversity%2C%20and%20the
Lüttin, L. (2024b, 05/12/2024). Full overview of the EU textile strategy and regulations. https://www.carbonfact.com/blog/policy/eu-regulations-for-textile-brands
Ministry of Environment of Denmark. (2021). Action plan for Circular Economy https://ddrn.dk/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/alle-faktaark-1.pdf
MoSARDR Latvia. (2021). Minister Plešs: State waste management plan will ensure the development of the sector. Ministry of Smart Administration and Regional Development Republic of Latvia. https://www.varam.gov.lv/en/article/minister-pless-state-waste-management-plan-will-ensure-development-sector?utm_source=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
Müncheberg, M. (2024). New EU rules for sustainable consumer behavior, the repair bonus is already available now. https://www.sea-help.eu/en/news-general/eu-repair-bonus-replacement/#:~:text=In%20Austria%20is%20already%20further,of%20200%20euros)%20for%20their
Puglia, M., Parker, L., Clube, R. K. M., Demirel, P., & Aurisicchio, M. (2024). The circular policy canvas: Mapping the European Union's policies for a sustainable fashion textiles industry. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 204, 107459. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2024.107459
ReFashion. (2021, 05/12/2024). The Repair Fund newest obligations. https://refashion.fr/pro/en/repair-fund-newest-obligations
Roberts, H., Milios, L., Mont, O., & Dalhammar, C. (2023). Product destruction: Exploring unsustainable production-consumption systems and appropriate policy responses. SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION, 35, 300-312. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2022.11.009
Salmenperä, H. (2023). Governing the Transition to Circularity of Textiles – Finnish Companies’ Expectations of Interventions for Change. Circular Economy and Sustainability, 3(4), 1747-1767. https://doi.org/10.1007/s43615-022-00238-x
Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2018). Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling – A review. JOURNAL OF CLEANER PRODUCTION, 184, 353-365. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266
Smejkalová, V., Šomplák, R., & Pluskal, J. (2024). Modelling the impact of legislative interventions on future waste production within territorial division. Clean Technologies and Environmental Policy. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10098-024-02903-1
United Nations Environment Programme. (2023). Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain: A Global Roadmap.
Ville De Luxembourg. (2022). Clothing and Textile. https://www.vdl.lu/en/living/your-home/waste-collection-and-sorting/type-waste/clothing-and-textiles
Zero Waste Europe. (2022). The Finnish law on textile waste separate collection and implementation pilots. https://zerowasteeurope.eu/library/the-finnish-law-on-textile-waste-separate-collection-and-implementation-pilots/