Business Model Innovation for Strong Sustainability: Conceptualizing Degrowth Value Creation in the Dutch Fashion Industry

Authors

  • Nicolas Chevrollier Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5212-3462
  • Lotte Levelt Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University https://orcid.org/0000-0001-5569-2604
  • Aikaterini Argyrou Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8189-0070
  • Floor Meijer Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.54337/jobm.v13i2.8375

Abstract

Purpose: Overconsumption and overproduction in the fashion industry have detrimental impacts on the environment and society. A radical transition of the industry is required to eliminate the impact generated by years of exploiting the Earth’s finite resources while ignoring planetary boundaries. A degrowth transition entails an equitable downscaling of production and consumption in the Global North to increase human well-being and enhance environmental conditions. This article aims to generate an empirical understanding of conceptualizing degrowth in business models, with an emphasis on how value is created in the examined companies and to bridge the gap between two research fields: degrowth and business model innovation for strong sustainability.

Design/Methodology/Approach: Our qualitative study investigates how 12 selected companies in the Dutch fashion industry conceptualize degrowth in their business models to create value.

Findings: Our results reveal that profit distribution is de-emphasized and that prioritizing social, ecological, and economic value while promoting growth in size and revenue allows these companies to outperform unsustainable competition. Consequently, we found that the examined companies create degrowth value through quality growth. Value maintaining is achieved by reducing resource use and output within production, combined with designing for durability, repairability, and longevity in clothing. The examined companies also share value by collaborating in the exchange of physical resources, knowledge, and skills to facilitate a sustainability transition in the industry. In terms of value unlocking, the companies operationalize degrowth while operating as sustainability influencers and demonstrating transparency regarding the sustainability of their operations and products.

Originality/Value: Our study contributes to a practical understanding of sustainable business models that support degrowth-oriented value creation in for-profit fashion companies. Conceptually, the findings highlight key degrowth principles employed by these businesses—such as leveraging sustainability influencers, maintaining transparency about the sustainability of operations and products, assuming responsibility for post-consumer product management, and ensuring fair value distribution. These principles are then linked to value functions that drive sustainable value creation. Finally, this study enriches the existing literature by offering empirical insights into how degrowth principles are implemented at the organizational level.

Author Biographies

Nicolas Chevrollier, Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University

Dr. Nicolas Chevrollier is an associate professor at Nyenrode Business University. He is part of Nyenrode's Faculty Research Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship. Chevrollier is lecturing at BSc, MSc and MBA levels and researching on how new forms of strategy, business models and organizations lead to higher levels of sustainability. He is especially interested in the transition to post-growth economy and how degrowth principles could be embedded into organization. Reconciling people, planet and business mechanisms is what ultimately give him energy while interacting with students and colleagues.

His background is of multiple international experiences in three continents (US, Africa, Europe). At Nyenrode, besides his position as an assistant professor, he is the chair of the education committee of the BSc programme and a member of the education committee of the Modular MBA programme. Prior to Nyenrode, he used to be the managing director of the Inclusive Business Accelerator and a management team member of the BoP Innovation Center.

Chevrollier obtained his PhD in 2006 from the National Institute of Telecommunications (INT) in France while conducting research at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) in the US. He followed in 2008 the INSEAD Social Entrepreneurship Programme (ISEP). He was an international volunteer for the Agence Universitaire de la Francophonie (AUF) in Madagascar in 2001-2002.

Lotte Levelt , Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University

Lotte Levelt MSc. Is a fulltime PhD candidate at the Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance and Stewardship. Her research focuses on sustainability and international development, with a particular focus on Degrowth: What do degrowth business models look like? How will we define value in a post-growth society? She gets inspired by idealist colleagues and students who think outside the box!

Levelt studied Governance, Economics and Development (BSc) at Leiden University’s Honours College, followed by a Research MSc (cum laude) in International Development Studies at the University of Amsterdam.

During and after her studies she worked for the Ministry of Infrastructure & Environment (2017-2018), and completed her thesis with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (2020). Besides ministries, Levelt worked for several Dutch and International NGOs (e.g, Effective Altruism Netherlands and Learning Enterprises, Reach and Teach).

Between 2020-2023 Levelt was a lecturer in social sciences and sustainability (Programs: Bèta-Gamma and Future Planet Studies) for the University of Amsterdam. Here, she completed the BKO (Basiskwalificatie Onderwijs) and she was a member of the Program Committee (Opleidingscommissie).

Her research interests include: sustainability and degrowth, global inequalities, policymaking in international development, rethinking economics, interdisciplinarity, circular economy and mixed-method research.

Her mission is to contribute to a more sustainable and egalitarian future, through research and education.

Aikaterini Argyrou , Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University

Dr. Aikaterini Argyrou LL.M is an Associate Professor at Nyenrode Business University. She is part of Nyenrode's Faculty Research Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship. Argyrou undertakes multidisciplinary research in the field of law, sustainability and social entrepreneurship. Her research focuses on the examination of normative frameworks that deliver substance to the concept of sustainability in entrepreneurship and company law from the perspective of social entrepreneurship. Her research interest also expands to research areas related to sustainability and institutional change, sustainable market transformation, business and human rights, CSR and gender in organizations. Since 2020 Argyrou is a Scientific Board Member to the OECD Global Action to promote Social and Solidarity Economy Ecosystems.

She has experience in utilizing several research methodologies which are reflected in her published scholarship: e.g. legal and socio-legal methods, the application of comparative analysis in legal and empirical studies, the development of systemic literature reviews and the application of empirical qualitative research methods using case studies. She has also participated in studies with mixed-method research designs. Her contribution is featured in academic scholarship but also in several reports developed for the OECD, EU Commission, the EU Parliament, the Dutch Parliament but also in practitioner reports and popular publications. In 2018-2019, Argyrou was also part of various research projects and evaluation studies commissioned by several Dutch and EU authorities.

Argyrou is a qualified corporate attorney and a member of the Athens Lawyer’s Bar Association since 2012. Prior to her PhD studies and academic positions, she was involved in many CSR research projects and CSR initiatives implemented by Nyenrode Business University, Utrecht University as well as by international institutes such as the World Legal Forum and the Hague Institute of the Internationalisation of Law (HiiL). In the past she was also a trainee legal counsel of the Greek Embassy in The Hague and a trainee attorney for two Greek-based legal firms.

Her personal mission is to extend the boundaries of existing knowledge and share with co-humans, colleagues, students and future generations her insight and understanding of the world and the lessons that she learns in life.

Floor Meijer , Center for Entrepreneurship, Governance & Stewardship, Nyenrode Business University

​Floor Meijer is a marketing professional based in Amsterdam, currently working at Reckitt, a global consumer goods company. She holds a Master of Science in Management from Nyenrode Business Universiteit. Additionally, she earned a Master of Science in Business Administration from Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, focusing on strategy and organization. Her academic background reflects a strong interest in sustainable business practices and strategic innovation.

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22-05-2025

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